Jesus 'n Jim
A mainly PC (some Mac) site w/Software, Computer Repair Info, How-To's on Using Computers
Technical Support 1-360-521-2060 (my business line cell)

build a new pc

 

If you want something that's pretty much kept up-to-date, check out the excel file at the bottom of the page.

x2 or x5 next to an item means multiply by that many.

Last Updated 4/9/2010

because I write this at a specific point in time, it is quickly dated. but it gives you an idea of the costs of building your own decent box from scratch. I can't spend all my time constantly updating the prices and content of this page. however, I DO update the Excel 2003 spreadsheet at the bottom of this page, and you should check that out at your earliest convenience to build yourself a box. you will need to do some research on your motherboard though to find out what kind of memory you need though - that is somewhat different for each type of motherboard (AMD, Intel, age and price level of motherboard).

don't skimp on your power supply! Pay $89 or more for one now and save money on power bills and multiple replaced cheap power supplies every 3 months at $35/pop later. Get one from OCZ or Antec, and make sure it's a certified 80 plus. those are usually in the 550W, 650W, 750W, 850W levels. OCZ bought out PC Power & Cooling. When you buy a power supply, start with the maximum of either 430W AND what manual says on your matched video card(s) (whatever power supply rating it recommends in the System Requirements is a absolute minimum, but for system stability, add at least another 80W to that. typically I would recommend a 550W power supply as a starter these days for future expansion (and it runs cooler). video cards are getting lighter on power usage now compared to the old cards.

the 64-bit version of whatever has fewer drivers for it - software availability is the same. 32-bit OS will run on 64-bit AMD processor, and supposedly will run with dual-core as well. No 32-bit versions of Windows vista (7/8?) will be able to play back "next generation high definition protected content" (translation studio-released BluRay and HD-DVD movies). You did buy a blu-ray player didn't you (they are $300)? Well, in any case, choose your OS wisely. I recommend a dual-core cpu for Vista at a minimum because of all the background tasks that are going on that will slow everything way down if you are on a single-core processor.

the 64-bit version of XP has only slightly fewer drivers and software for it - it also does not run MS-DOS applications. 32-bit OS will run on 64-bit AMD processor. Processor is upgradable. 1TB hard disk and SL Blu-Ray burner. Thermally Advantaged Case design.

thermal paste article, PSU quality article


basic AMD box

4/17/2012

case: Antec Nine Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case with Upgraded USB 3.0 $99.99+$12.99

cables: ATA133 cable 18" pvc $3.99+5.99=$9.98, SATA II cable straight 19.6" w/metal latch on both ends 3×($3.49+$1.99shipping)=$16.44 (I am sure I am calculating this wrong)

HD: Western Digital Caviar Green WD15EARS 1.5TB 64MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive $64.99

Optical: HP 24X Multiformat DVD Burner 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM Black SATA Model 1270i LightScribe Support $23.99+$6.98=$30.97
Optical: LITE-ON 12X BD-R 2X BD-RE 16X DVD+R 12X DVD-RAM 8X BD-ROM 8MB Cache SATA Blu-ray Burner with 3D Playback iHBS212-08 LightScribe Support $114.99

motherboard: ASUS F1A75-M PRO FM1 AMD A75 (Hudson D3) HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX AMD Motherboard with UEFI BIOS $104.99

proc: AMD A4-3300 Llano 2.5GHz 2 x 512KB L2 Cache Socket FM1 65W Dual-Core Desktop Processor AD3300OJGXBOX $64.99

2x4GB Ram: Kingston 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1066 (PC3 8500) Desktop Memory Model KVR1066D3N7/4G 2x$23.99+$0.99 (you can have 4 ddr3-1866 if you want)

PSU: OCZ ModXStream Pro OCZ700MXSP 700W ATX12V V2.2 / EPS12V SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply compatible with core i7 - Retail $89.99

Video: MSI R6770-MD1GD5 Radeon HD 6770 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card $114.99+$6.98=$121.97

LED Monitor: ViewSonic VA2231wm-LED Black 22" 5ms LED Backlight Widescreen LCD Monitor 250 cd/m2 DC 10,000,000:1 W/ Speakers 1920x1080 $139.99+8.99

AV: Norton 360 3-user (XP and up) $69.99

SPEAKERS: Logitech speakers $25-$399

MOUSE: Microsoft Intellimouse Explorer 3.0 $32.99+6.98=$39.97

KEYBOARD: KeyTronic CLASSIC-P2 Black PS/2 Standard Keyboard - Retail 20 million keypresses $34.99+$8.95=$43.94

OS: 7 Home Premium Full Retail (can't legally use OEM) $189.99

TOTAL: $1140.15-$1598.18

By the way, you can pick up a bew computer with similar or better specs for about $600-700 at wal-mart or costco. zt-affinity is the brand name.


high end 64-bit adobe/cad box (intel)

10/10/2011, something with floppy controller

case: Antec Nine Hundred Two V3 Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Gaming Case $119.95+$4.99=$124.98
case: Antec Twelve Hundred V3 Black Steel ATX Full Tower Unbeatable Gaming Case $159.99+$11.99=$171.98

cables: cables unlimited flat ribbon 24" dual floppy cable $7.99+$5.99=$13.98, floppy cable $6.99+$2.99=$9.98, ATA133 dual cable 18" pvc $3.99+5.99=9.98, SATA II cable straight 19.6" w/metal latch on both ends 3×($3.49+$1.99shipping)=$16.44 (I am sure I am calculating this wrong)

HD: Western Digital Caviar Black WD2002FAEX 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive 2×$219.99+7.28

Optical: LITE-ON 12X BD-R 2X BD-RE 16X DVD+R 12X DVD-RAM 8X BD-ROM 8MB Cache SATA Blu-ray Burner with 3D Playback iHBS212-08 LightScribe Support $114.99

motherboard: ASUS P9X79 PRO LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with USB BIOS $319.99+8.50

CPU: Intel Core i7-3960X Extreme Edition Sandy Bridge-E 3.3GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 2011 130W Six-Core Desktop Processor BX80619i73960X $1039.99

8x8GiB=64GiB Ram: GeIL EVO CORSA Series 64GB (8 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model GOC364GB1600C10DQC $494.99

PSU: Antec High Current Gamer Series HCG-750 750W ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V v2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Certified 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply $109.99+5.99

LED Monitor: ViewSonic VA2231wm-LED Black 22" 5ms LED Backlight Widescreen LCD Monitor 250 cd/m2 DC 10,000,000:1 W/ Speakers 1920x1080 $139.99+8.99

LED Monitor: HP ZR30w 30-inch S-IPS LCD Monitor 2560x1600 $1228

AV: Norton 360 3-user (XP and up) $69.99

SPEAKERS: Logitech speakers $25-$399 (I am choosing the $84.99 2.1 speakers)

MOUSE: Microsoft Intellimouse Explorer 3.0 $32.99+6.98=$39.97

KEYBOARD: Das Keyboard professional mechanical switch keyboard ("clack" audible and tactile feedback) $130

Video: eVGA GeForce GTX-580 $419,$424 this is for gaming and adobe use

OS: 7 Ultimate Full Retail (can't legally use OEM) $289.99

OPTIONAL Software: Adobe CS5.5 Production Premium (includes Premiere & soundbooth) $1,799+$10=$1809
or Software: Adobe CS5.5 Web Premium $1,799+$10=$1809

or Software: Adobe CS5.5 Design Premium $1,799+$10=$1809

or Software: Adobe CS5.5 Master Collection $2.599+$10=$2609

TOTAL: $3721.06(no optional software)-$4990.08(no optional software)


tips:

Quiet your PC if you so desire: try a Zalman CNPS11X (hard for ne to get the nodel number right) or one of their many other silent CPU coolers (they make VGA coolers too) or a Thermalright. There are specialty stores such as Directron and Silicon Accoustics. you can probably get them from nextag.com. Find and replace the loudest part in your case.
Definitely check out silentpcreview.com.

video drivers

got video drivers that aren't working great? try ones from the chipset mfr.

Nvidia video drivers here - just look for forceware drivers. it will work aith any nVidia chipset.

ATI Video drivers here.

video card/GPU

Avoid using a power pci-e 6-pin or 8-pin Y cable to fill in the blank power connectors on your video card. get a power supply that has sufficient power connectors on it. you want a power supply whihc is capableof supplying the properamount of power. A Y cable is not going to do anything (well, except burn up a card maybe). think of a PSU power cable like a water hose, the water flow is the current (Amps). Using a y cable is like thinking you are going to get more water by putting a funnel with the small end at the end of the hose. What you really need is another faucet and hose if you want more water (they come in standard sizes). same with video power. if the video card comes with a 6+8 pin connector set, get a PSU which has those connectors on it. also, make sure that the wattage on your PSU meets the minimum wattage listed in the video card manual +100W for stability (especially when you start adding more drives).

CPU installation

buy a BOXED processor - retail, not OEM. OEM you get the cpu only and no cooler. The boxed processors' fans are usually warrantied for 3 years.

remove any of the thermal interface material that comes with the processor. it's bad. see video for how. the thermal interface material of a boxed processor+heatsink is made for one use only, and it must be scraped off with a thumbnail or a hard piece of plastic is fine (don't use a screwdriver, use something non-metal) and/or wiped off with alcohol or arctic remover. Yeah, it will ruin your thumbnail - hope it's tough. or use paper towels (and a short and pants that are not precious). wipe the processor clean also.

try not to use too much thermal grease on the processor. The Smiley Face method works very well. see these videos #1 and #2

you don't want it overflowing around the edges of the heatsink - spread it around on the surface and use just enough to cover the surface of the metal block.

...and try not to slip-n-slide the heatsink around on the processor - it removes thermal interface material from between the processor and the heatsink, and you don't want that.

place carefully, and don't let the heat sink rock around on corners of the chip or you will crack the chip - if they still make them that way.

I do not know the steps for a Zalman fan, but I do know that you have to be extra careful when moving your case if you have one installed, because they are extra heavy and stick out like a sore thumb.

But if you are a gamer, you're probably going to want one of those or a water cooling system on all your overclocked HW.

REMOVAL OF CPU FROM MOTHERBOARD:

don't remove CPU cooler from off the CPU/processor after you have installed it unless you happen to have extra Arctic Silver or thermal grease or similar heatsink compound handy. also suggest that if you have to remove the existing processor off and re-use it on a different motherboard, that you use rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to remove the thermal material (fingernail or piece of hard plastic if you have to, but not a screwdriver!).

then apply thermal grease, enough to cover the contact area with a thin layer and not overflow a lot (some are conductive, possibly the Arctic Silver). again, do not slide if you can avoid it, and do not rock the heatsink/cooler back or forth, or you could break the corners of the chip off, and most people try to avoid having to buy a new processor if they can avoid it.

an improperly cooled CPU can cause havoc and instability with programs.

PSU (Power Supply Unit)

buy an 80 Plus Bronze/Silver/Gold certified unit. you will save on power bills.

make sure it has sufficient connectors for your video and other peripherals, and some even for expansion, such as an extra hard disk (for powering an upgrade/replacement hd after 5 years when it wears out) or two if that's the way you work.

hard drive

a bad hard drive can cause long delays if it has bad blocks, times when the hard drive disappears and it says "no disk".

I don't believe it when someone tells me that a new hard drive has bad blocks still to mark off. I have been told this by support folk at some software companies, and I don't believe it. those are marked off at the factory.

fans

The extra fan is for the front of the case. you will need to mount it with the direction arrow pointing the same direction as the other fan in the case, or you will have airflow problems. the fan that is already in the case is set up to work with the airflow of the PSU rather than against it. my guess is that the air will be flowing in through the front and out the back - that is how it usually goes.

case

I suggest you get a case with cooling that uses ball bearing fans. VERY FEW companies use ball bearing fans nowadays. ball bearing fans (if that's what they are) last a nice long time. we have equipment which I think uses ball bearing fans, and this equipment, including a windows 98 machine and a windows 3.1 machine from 1990, is still running (though the 3.1 box doesn't get used much anymore).

RECOMMENDED CASES: Antec is one of the few companies using ball bearing fans (at least they used to say that they did), specifically the "Antec nine hundred" (19" mid tower) and "Antec twelve hundred two v3" (full tower) (4/17/2012). I think this case is well-cooled (900 has 4 fans expandable to 6, 1200v3 has 6 fans expandable to 8), and it looks great (gaming case) and has lots of room, whether you choose the full tower or the mid tower.

diagnostics

how to build a computer

How to build a computer

Downloads

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newegg-frys-pc.xls - computer build excel spreadsheet (10/10/2011, 1MB)